A famous hot spring resort region, Hakone is set amidst beautiful mountains, which comprises of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. During good weather, Hakone can make a wonderful trip, as one would be able to enjoy the magnificent view of Mt Fuji. There are enjoyable cable car rides, open-air museums, volcanic hot springs, and cruises around Lake Ashino-ko.  Sadly for me, today was a little on the cold side with a constant biting wind. 

The Hakone Shrine with its red entrance gate (torii) rising from the lake is almost impossible to miss! It is located within a wooded grove and huge cedars line the pathway leading up to the shrine. A treasure hall is also located within the premises.  By arriving at the shrine so early in the morning I was able to witness the temple priests and staff performing their morning cleaning.  The gentle whisk of bamboo brooms filled the silence ass the priests swept the dust and off the temple steps.  Seeing this made me think that this same morning activity has been going on for hundreds of years here.   The scene I was witnessing was pulled from the pages of history.  

The rows of cedar trees by Lake Ashi are said to have been planted in 1618, at the beginning of the Edo Period. Around 420 huge cedar trees still stand strong.  Pretty amazing to think that when these trees were planted here a full 2 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock.  Kind of puts things into scale.  Japan has a Long history.

Lake Ashino-ko is one of Hakone region's primary attractions. This is only because Mt Fuji is situated across the lake. And with the mountain's snow-clad slopes and omnipresence, it is no wonder the lake is so popular. Rowing boats, pedal boats, and even chauffeur-driven motor boats are available for rental for a ride or two around the lake.    

By catching a ride on a ropeway you can see a spectacular view of Mt Fuji.  From the highest point of the ropeway you can get off and view Owakudani, or "Great Boiling Valley."   You will quickly understand how it got its name when you see (and smell) the sulfurous steam escaping from fissures in the rock, testimony to volcanic activity still present here. Most Japanese commemorate their trip here by buying boiled eggs cooked in the boiling waters, available at the small hut midway along the trail.  The tour guide told me that there is a story behind the eggs cooked in the sulfurous boiling waters.  Due to high iron concentrations in the water, the egg shells turn black when they are boiled.  They are also said to have great medicinal value.  If a person eats one of these eggs his or her life span will be increased by seven years. If a person eats two of the eggs, he or she will get gas.  Ha ha ha...  (Makes you wonder why they sell the eggs in bunches of 6....it must make a tour bus ride back from Hakone pure hell.)

After descending the ropeway to the other side of the mountain you arrive at Lake Ashi.  From there you can take a pleasure boat across Lake Ashi, also referred to as "Lake Hakone" in some English brochures. Believe it or not, three of the boats plying the waters are look like pirate ships.  A lot of people think this is what they are supposed to be, but in actuality they are replicas of Dutch and Portuguese galleons.  (But given how gaudy the ships look gliding across scenic Lake Ashi, I have come to think that a more fitting description would be "Liberache's Pirate Ships").  A recent addition to the tourist boat fleet on Lake Ashi is a  replica Mississippi paddleboat. I've yet to see the connection between Lake Ashi, 19th century American riverboats, and 14th century European war ships, but then again, this is Japan.  Anything goes.)

It takes about half an hour to cross the lake to Hakone-machi (also called simply Hakone; machi means city) and Moto-Hakone, two resort towns right next to each other on the southern edge of the lake. This end of the lake affords the best view of Mt. Fuji, one often depicted in tourist publications. 

Otherwise, for more sightseeing, get off the boat in Hakone-machi, take a left, and then walk about 5 minutes on the town's main road, following the signs to the Hakone Check Point, or Hakone Sekisho, on a road lined with some souvenir shops. This is a reconstructed guardhouse, originally built in 1619 to serve as a checkpoint along the famous Tokaido Highway, which connected Edo (present-day Tokyo) with Kyoto. In feudal days, local lords, called daimyo, were required to spend alternate years in Edo, and their wives were kept on in Edo as hostages so that the lords wouldn't plan rebellions while in their homelands. This was one of the points along the highway where female travelers and guns were checked, primarily to keep women from fleeing Edo. Passes were necessary for travel, and although it was possible to sneak around it, male violators who were caught were promptly executed, while women suffered the indignation of having their heads shaven and were then given away to anyone who wanted them. You'll see displays relating to the Edo Period, including items used for travel, samurai armor, and life-size models re-enacting scenes inside a checkpoint.

All told I think a trip to Hakone is well worth the time spent.  I plan on going back during the summertime when everything has greened up and the temperatures reach more comfortable levels.